| Sketchley's Translations Main Index | Macross Portal |
| By AARON SKETCHLEY (aaronsketch@HOTdelete_thisMAIL.com) | Ver 1.0 2012.11.25 |
| Dengeki Hobby Magazine 2012.12 |
|---|
Topic 04: Bandai Hobby Project Department has started on the development project of a "Fully Transformable VF-1"
1/72 scale VF-1 Valkyrie (tentative)
Skimming the paragraphs: looks like it'll be a plastic model kit. As they reference the VF-25 kits, it's possible that it might be on the same scale of detail. Alas, despite indicating that it's for the 30th Anniversary... it looks like by the time it'll be released, it'll be the 31st anniversary...
Caption: 1/72 Scale VF-1 Valkyrie (tentative)
Price: pending Release date: pending
Macross 30th Logo Caption: the 3D data is being released at the same time as the project's start. Pay special attention to developments from now on!
Build Up Your 1/1000 Scale "C.C.F Set 1"
(...)
UN Space Naval Forces Combined Space Fleet Set 1
1/1000 scale plastic kit
Now on sale
Price: 3,150
Sales Agency: Bandai Hobby Operations Division
Instructions on the Basic Construction Method of the Murasame class Space Cruiser
Murasame: Select the parts that will be glued:
The Earth Fleet set is made of completely separate colour coded parts, the same as the previously produced Yamato battleship, and can be completed with colouring like that from the show without any painting. Here, we show the production tricks with the Murasame's showiest colour scheme as the example.
1.2.3.: although it has a gaudy colour scheme that's composed of red, white, yellow and black, the kit is designed so that the seams of the parts, which have parts divisions that are as admirable as they come, don't extend beyond the surface. However, as it's a plastic kit, there are places where seams unavoidably appear on the surface of the hull. For starters, gluing those parts erases the seams. There are 2 blocks of red parts and 2 blocks of yellow parts in the hull's upper surface; and 4 blocks of white parts in the hull's lower part. It'll be good to glue those parts at the middle division in each partition. Although the "Murasame class" is explained here as an example, the same thing can be used as a reference for the "Isokaze class", as it is composed of nearly the same type of parts.
Murasame: Erasing the seams and restoring the panel lines:
As the parts with seams are resolutely glued, the seams are erased. Although there are sections that barely extend from the surface, due to the skillful proportions of the parts, the kit is further improved for display after completion of the kit by erasing those surface extensions.
1. First of all, glue the parts together by applying adhesive to the two sides of the parts that are to be glued together. At this time, it's better to use the common "adhesive with resin" than the wash type adhesive.
2. Some advice on how to keep the parts that have been glued together from looking like they've slid: the trick is to lightly press the parts together so that the adhesive is lightly pushed out. Then, let it dry for 24 or more hours before moving on to next step.
3. Because the plastic that's been dissolved by the adhesive is effectively the same as putty after drying, file off any differences in the level of the parts. The minute cracks will be filled, and the joints in the parts will disappear.
4. In the places were the seams in the parts have disappeared due to the adhesive and filing, reproduce the panel lines that have disappeared. The most uncomplicated method is to use a 0.1 mm etching knife and it should be fine to move the knife like a saw to connect the remnants of the panel lines on both parts.
5. The process has been completed. Because cracks have set into the parting lines, in order to make the best use of the "convex molds (the hole and the upper and lower arrow parts in the block centre)" of the parts in this block, it is important that you file in a way tjat doesn't shave off that molding.
Captions: Kirishima, Yukikaze
Yukikaze: Reproducing lost details by carving
When casting by mold, due to the manufacturing method, the molding of the sides of the parts are not finished properly. Due to the detail parts divisions in this kit, even though most of the parts have sharp molds, due to the smallness of the parts, there are some parts where it might be best to fix them with a carving knife.
1. The bow of the "Isogaze class" when seen from the side. The unfinished crank-shaped panel line that runs from top to bottom, and the rectangular window-shape mold can be made more clear (arrow parts).
2. First of all, the panel line: now, only a part of the panel line is superficially there. Fix it by carving it deeper with a needle. Don't use much power, and it might be fine to carve the panel line by using the line that's there from the start.
3. Next is the molding of the rectangular window shape. Here, compared to the other details, it is best to process the "outcome of the step" before proceeding: carve the rectangular shaped concave mold using an engraving line chisel or narrow flat-chisel.
4. The process has been completed. Although it is a small mold and simple work that's easily overlooked, a world of difference will appear with it's degree of completeness when you panel line the kit. One can say that more than the degree of difficulty, whether or not you perceive these kinds of things is the essential point of this kit.
5,6. The above mentioned methods are effective at reproducing the details that have been damaged by filing the bonding joints. As there are seams in the top of the Isokaze class's stern, you can restore the panel lines there after the method used to erase the seams.
Murasame: Ways to make the best use of the panel line and part divisions without change
Usually, the hull's panel lines are expressed with engraved lines. However for this kit, the molding in the connecting parts of each block achieves the same effect as an engraved line, even when joined together with different parts. If you engrave the parts that aren't finished properly due to the molding, the whole kit becomes sharper.
Upper caption: shave this
Lower Caption: it's a panel line
1. A staircase-shaped mold runs parallel to the outer circumference of the surface of the parts (the area within the circle). It is molded this way in order to reproduce the panel lines when the pieces of the block are joined with the parts of another block.
2. Steadily restore this staircase shaped molding using a design knife, etc.. Although this is difficult to spot when glancing at the model, it is a point to be noted; as the parts that come together in each of the coloured blocks won't finish beautifully when this is neglected.
3. Completion. Filing it with something other than a design knife, such as the angle of the edge of a sharp triangular file or the edge of a setting file to make it into a single line, is a good point.
Murasame: There are also parts that need to be glued
There are parts of the Bandai Yamato 2199 plastic kit where adhesive is used. For the minuscule parts that don't have pins that are inserting into other parts, you need to take enough care that those parts are properly fastened with glue.
Caption: There are a variety of methods for bonding the detailed parts. When completing the kit without painting, it's best to use a "wash adhesive", like in the picture. When painting the kit, it's better to use instant adhesive, due to the high probability of the paint film being removed when gluing.
Kirishima: Note the parting line that was produced by the slide mold
A sliding mold produced the opening in the gun ports in the Kongo class main battery parts. Due to that, a parting line was produced in the tip of the gun barrels (the black line in the picture). Erasing that line with a file is sufficient.
Caption: The parting line is erased using sandpaper. It's fine to use a 600~800~1000 3-grade fine file grit.
Kirishima: Erasing the seams is easy by Ato-Hame* assembly
Even though the kit is exquisitely divided, one can still see the seams. In order to erase those seams, it's important to make up your mind and to Ato-Hame assemble the kit.
1. Because the surface of the rear of the Kongo class produces a unique seam, you can Ato-Hame by cutting the pins that have been painted black.
2. At first, glue only the surface of the hull, and erase the seams with the aforementioned way to do it.
3. By cutting the pins at the start, it is possible to assemble the kit in your own easy-to-do order, which differ from the assembly instructions; like in the picture.
* Lit. inserting the parts after. After completing the painting of each of the sections that are the same colour, you insert the pins of each section each other for final assembly.
Murasame: Preparing for the process of Ato-Hame
In the Ato-Hame process, it is greatly recommended that you first assemble the blocks that are easy to work with, so that you can work with better efficiency. Although the construction is easy, be careful, as if you don't firmly image where you're going to do the Ato-Hame, then you won't be able to assemble the kit.
1. Originally, these 2 parts were inserted between the pins that are circled. The picture shows how it is assembled as one part.
2. The Ato-Hame processing method is simple: cut the pins that are inserted inside the other part at their base. You only have to do that.
3. When you've finished cutting the pins, lightly file the connecting surface of both parts to make them flush. By doing this, when you fasten the blocks together with glue, there won't be any gaps in the connecting parts, and a greater sense of unity is produced in the hull parts of the kit.
Down Arrow: all the white parts in the substructure of the hull have been combined. Although it's important to bond each part together without gaps, it is also important to accurately prepare a level surface at the same time. You can bond the kit using a flat space such as a desk so that the hull has a straight line.
Murasame: You're working efficiency improves, by painting each piece one by one
When using the Ato-Hame process, it is possible to paint the kit without any masking, if you paint after first assembling the parts of the same colour.
1. The upper surface of the hull, which is composed of red, white and yellow colours, was originally connected, inserted together like this. However, when you paint, you paint every block each colour. If you assemble the kit after painting, you can finish the kit without any masking.
2. The upper part of the hull can also be worked on in a similar way for each block. After painting, fasten the parts together with glue. These four blocks are connected, inserting into each other, the same as the lower part of the hull. You can Ato-Hame by only cutting the pins in the same way.
3. The four blocks connected together. Because there are bilge-keel-like wing shapes on both sides of the hull, each of these parts are glued together with a straight connection.
Down arrow: More and more of the bow and stern parts are installed. If you'd proceeded by following the instruction manual, you'd have completed the kit, as these parts are not connected by inserting the pins into each other.
Caption: complete!
Up arrow: at the end, the kit is completed by connecting the top part of the hull. If you produce the kit in this way, you don't have to do troublesome masking work, and can have a colourful paint job without the time and labour needed for it.
Commentary: colour pictures of the Gamirasu characters appearing in the 4th episode, along with 3 colour variants of the Gaiperon class space carrier.
Commentary: colour pictures of the 3DCG modelling for the forthcoming "1/1000 Gamirasu Fleet Set 1", and the Moriyuki Yamato 2199 ver. figure.
Commentary: B&W line-art of the 3 UN Cosmo Navy Combined Fleet kit's ships. I've seen about half of them in Great Mechanics, but it's nice to have them collected in one section, and some of them are larger than the earlier publication.
Jamming Birds VF-11D Custom
Hasegawa 1/72 plastic kit
modelled by Takuma Sato
Macross the Forefront
The autumn of 2012. Speaking of autumn, it's hobby shows. Thus, this year of the 30th Macross Anniversary, two super stars come out in their first appearances at the show venues!! The 30th Macross Anniversary festival still doesn't end!
Hasegawa's New VF-11 kit will go on sale soon!
VF-11B Super Thunderbolt "Macross Plus"
(...)
Comments: includes VF-11C Super Pack (square) nozzle bonus parts. The box art looks really nice. Courtesy Hidetaka san?
Price: 3,570 (including tax)
On sale: early November
Sales agency: Hasegawa
Deh-kore "Macross 7" on sale!
Dengeki Hobby Data Collection "Macross 7"
(...)
Price: 1,155 (including tax)
On sale: 10.31
Publisher: Ascii Media Works
Sales: Kadokawa Group Publishing
Commodification decision of the VF-25 from Hasegawa
Hasegawa 1/72 VF-25
(...)
Price: undecided
Planned release for sale summer, 2013
Sales Agency: Hasegawa
The Yamato VF-4G is in the molding test stage!
1/60 Perfect Transformation VF-4G Lightning III
(...)
Price: 26,985 (tax included, free shipping)
Planned December release
Sales Agency: Yamato - Yamato OnlineShop limited release item
Price: 17,850 (tax included)
Now on sale
Sales Agency: Bandai Collectors Division
Decision to also sell Super Parts for the DX Chougoukin YF-29 Durandal Valkyrie (30th Anniversary colouring)
(...)
Price: 4,725 (tax included / shipping separate)
Planned to be shipped 2013.05
Price: undetermined
Release: undetermined
Sales Agency: Bandai Collectors Division
Supporting messages from well-known creators at the launch!!
(...)
Commentary: messages from such creators as Kawamori Shouji and Hidetaka Tenjin.
This is Banpure Macross's premium for November!
Macross 30th Anniversary SQ Figure ~Sheryl Nome Coscro [Costume Crossover]~
(...)
Commentary: 3 pgs (2 colour, 1 B&W) on Starship Troopers: Invasion. Specifically a synopsis of the movie, and a 1/72 full-injection static model of the ST powered suit from the movie. If I'm not mistaken, it's a recast/mod of the figure that comes with the BD box set. The last page is an interview along with design artwork for the powered suits by Aramaki-san.
Commentary: 13 pg (!) on Gunhed (why couldn't the preceding month's special article on Macross be this long?!?]
anyhow... 5 pgs on the movie version, 3 pgs on the comic version, 2 pg on what looks like the movie's production design lineart for the G1 and G2 modes. 1 pg interview with Masahiro Takashima.